Leather Quality

Not all vegetable tanned full grain leather is created equal.  Often times tanneries will hurry the process or use inexpensive materials and solutions instead of time honored recipes.  I invite you to click on any of the pictures to get a close up look at the details.

I swear some guys out there are so good with their pictures and descriptions they could sell ice to an Eskimo.  I think the problem in general with leather is that it has been decades since any quality leather goods have been readily available in the retail world. The public in general is clueless about what good leather is, what to look for or how to take care of it as we have been brought up in a disposable world.  Many makers will make the statement that leather is a natural product which will contain marks and irregularities.  Yes this is very true.  But a careful and conscientious craftsman will spend the extra time and money to offer true value in his or her work.  Knowing that they can forgo the silly business of selling you a new item every few years thus wasting your time and resources.  It is more profitable to society to have a business model that involves expanding slowly and organically by word of mouth from satisfied customers as opposed to flashy gimmicks promising image over substance.

In the first example we see many imperfections in the grain.

Upon looking at the flesh side we see a very loose fiber structure.  This full grain leather would require frequent maintenance to prevent the fibers from crumbling.  The leather has a very loose hand and is soft but not supple.

The hand of this leather is somewhat stiff and dry feeling.  Notice the distinct color difference from the different tanning formula; this piece most likely used inexpensive barks as the tannins and was tanned quickly to save money.

 Again we see a flossy back with loose fiber structure.  You might be thinking that you won't be looking at the back or see that your item has a lining to hide this.  The problem with a loose piece of leather is that the sides or edges will tend to get fuzzy and flossy as the burnishing compound wears off.  Then you stop remembering to take care of it.

The leather I use comes from Tannerie Masure in Belgium where antibiotics and growth hormones are forbidden in cattle.  Unfortunately a lot of North American leather is a byproduct of the fast food industry which gives little regard to the health and well being of their livestock... or employees for that matter.  I donate monthly to Mercy for Animals to help change that.  It is a shame upon on our society the way "modern" factories treat animals.

This leather is slowly tanned with a combination of mimosa, Québracho and chestnut barks.  The pieces are from the backs of the cattle where the tightest grain structure may be found.  Note the tight grain pattern.

The tight fiber structure is indicative of traditional durability and quality.  The edges will resist fraying far better than other leathers.  The hand is both soft and supple meaning it has some give to it and will quickly return to its original shape when bent.

Based upon some reviews I have been seeing of some of my talented competitors; a lot of guys seem to be selling stiff leather.  I apologize for them.  I believe that it is the leather workers responsibility to offer work that not only preserves the natural suppleness of the leather but enhances it.  I started learning very quickly which processes and techniques rob the leather from essential and traditional tannins and oils which the tannery spent a long time putting in.  I always figured everyone else had enough common sense and dedication to stop using those techniques or products which dry out the leather as well?  I am sure there are many of us who haven't forgotten the old ways of doing things.  Those of us who still add multiple layers of protective finish and conditioners to enhance the leather.  So that it arrives to you in perfectly well preserved condition which is easy to maintain.